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For anyone working with Vitamin C here is what I've found out so far.

Working with vitamin C can be Tricky! Vitamin C is water soluble and is hard to dissolve with most other solvents. Now here comes the tricky bit, water oxidizes vitamin C and makes it unstable. Ascorbic Acid the most skin beneficial form of Vitamin C is also the most unstable form especially in water. So you can go for other forms of vitamin C, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (oil soluble form), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (water stable form) and others. These forms of vitamin c are not easy to find in Australia and generally more expensive, also requiring higher levels of synthetic ingredients and chemistry expertise.

A few steps to insure you get the most out of your Vitamin C.
The amount of water used in your product should be limited to what is required to dissolve the Vitamin C. Vitamin C is more stable in emulsions. Stability is increased by keeping your product at a Ph of 3 to 3.5. Only make small batches aim for 15ml to 30ml serums. Limit air exposure to your product. Add other antioxidants to your formula to protect the vitamin C.
Below 1% Vitamin C stability is compromised and therapeutic effect is minimal.
Vitamin C at 5% will impart most of its therapeutic effects.
Vitamin C at 10% is most effective and is about the most you should aim for without the help of a chemist.
Remember that Vitamin C is an acid and can sting in high concentrations. Lastly Vitamin C discolours when it oxidizes so watch for colour changes in your product. I hope this helps and would love to hear any other formultion tips for working with vitamin C.

Bobby
Hi Bobby,

thanks for sharing that information, I'm sure it will be really helpful.

Makes me wonder though, what is done to vitamin C if its naturally water soluble, but there's an oil soluble version?

Michelle
There is a lot of information on the net about what happens to Vitamin C (ascorbic acid form) when dissolved in water. It has been shown that Ascorbic acid goes through a few steps of oxidation until its structure is no longer threaputic. The oil soluble form of vitamin C is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. There are other soulvents for vitamin C but they are hard to find and difficult to work with.

Because I only use my vitamin C products at home and not for sale, I have began to dissolve my Ascorbic acid in minimal amounts of dimineralised water or floral water and added into my emoulsions after tempreature has dropped to 40 degrees. Not all the Vtiamin C disolves, but I still add it with no granular feel in the end product. Because vitamin C is more stable in emulsions I have found that this has been effective.

If you were wanting to sell your vitamin C products then the assitance of a chemist would be highly advisable and product testing for stablity and effectiveness a must. One point of intrest is that (nearly) all commercial Vitamin C products that use Ascorbic acid form of vitamin C have water in their ingredients.

Bobby
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